For simple pleasures you can't beat DeNoce's Cafe in Ventura

By Rita Moran
Thursday, June 21, 2007

DeNoce's Catering & Cafe is an oasis of fresh food in a cluster of industrial buildings off Olivas Park Drive in Ventura, a dash of green in a beige world.

Open only for lunch, the cafe is one of the more civilized order-at-the-counter places around: Tables and chairs are comfortable, the menu is as condensed as the site is small, and service to the tables employs pristine white chinaware.

The operation is run by Michelle DeNoce, a brisk young woman who is eager to talk about her food, her culinary philosophy and her use of family recipes for Italian specialties like meatball sandwiches generously moistened with marinara sauce.

We placed our order with a pleasant counterman, who immediately gave it to two men waiting for action at the pass-through window to the kitchen. Our order was a bit complicated, as we were going for a half-salad with soup ($6.95), a half-sandwich with salad (ditto), and a meatball sandwich to go ($7.95).

After placing our order, we picked up a soda and a juice drink from the refrigerated case by the counter and sat down to wait for good things to happen.

Our half-salad order was for a spinach rather than house salad, paired with a cup of the day's special beef Burgundy soup. Beyond the fresh spinach, feta cheese, candied walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette, the salad's special appeal was in its slices of fresh pears. The result was a salad in which every bite brought a kick of flavor. We even found unannounced bits of black olives in the mix, providing just the right touch of Mediterranean zest.

The intensely flavored soup had plenty of beef immersed in a dark, creamy base that reminded me of oxtail soups I've tasted in the past.

The plate with our half-order snapper sandwich included a half-order house salad (other options with half-sandwiches are sweet potato fries or soup).

So we were able to ascertain that the house salad, too, is a winner. It featured a mix of spring greens, toasted pine nuts, tomatoes and Parmesan cheese. From the selection of dressings, we found that the honey mustard, served on the side and applied sparingly, was also very good.

Best of all, though, was the delicious snapper sandwich.

The snapper was moist and tender and tasted as though it had just come off the boat. It was lightly breaded and fried, then placed on a piece of sourdough baguette (other breads are available) with a dollop of the house-made tartar sauce, a slice of tomato and a sprinkle of watercress. The meatball sandwich was layered with the small, well-seasoned and tender meatballs, provolone cheese and marinara sauce, and came with the cheese melting enticingly down the sides of the baguette.

We also enjoyed the chicken caprese sandwich, which paired chicken breast with mozzarella, tomato and a balsamic glaze.

DeNoce makes some of her desserts but leaves the creation of more time-consuming items, like the chocolate pyramid on display the day we visited, to other sources. As a caterer, she also delves into more elaborate dishes in a wide variety of menu options.

But for more simple pleasures, you can't beat her cafe. It's a hidden treasure.

Eric Parsons / Star staff: DeNoce's Catering & Cafe is tastefully decorated and provides a quiet spot for lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Ventura.